Summer Visit to Bangor, Maine

Stephen King's house is a top tourist attraction.

I never lived in Bangor, Maine, but I have been traveling through it or to it my entire life. Over the years, I have been to the Bangor State Fair, to dinner, to the movies, or to the Bangor Mall. I went to college at The University of Maine and traveled through Bangor several times a year, driving on State Street over what I used to call the old, old bridge over the Penobscot River between Bangor and Brewer. Bangor had always been in my periphery but never a real destination for an extended stay, until now. I planned a 10-day visit during August, first to visit my son, Joe, who lives and works there. Second, I wanted to give myself a personal reading and writing retreat, to work on personal projects (such as blog writing) away from the day-to-day domestic distractions of home.

This is a long blog entry. Feel free to jump around and read only the sections interesting to you. I added a few subtitles and links to help you navigate. I tried to not go into too much detail but linked to websites and other sources in the event you would like to explore further on your own.

Travel to Bangor & Lodging

To get to Bangor, you can drive if you're nearby, or you can fly directly to Bangor International Airport or you can do what I did and fly into Logan International Airport in Boston and take Concord Coach Lines to Bangor. The bus picks up passengers at each terminal right outside baggage claim. Busses are clean, quiet, and provide complimentary movies, water, and pretzels. One-way fare from Logan to Bangor is $46.

Window treatment at the Thomas Hill Standpipe

My first accommodation was an Airbnb room in an older house in Veazie, a pretty little town with tree-lined streets and homes with green lawns and summer flowers just north of Bangor on Route 2/State Street. My room, named Twin Oaks, was on the second floor, and I shared the bathroom with the other second-floor guest and the open kitchen/dining/living area with both first and second floor guests. The house was older and had its quirky features; nevertheless, it was comfortable, quiet, and provided plenty of privacy when I wanted it. The neighborhood ran along the Penobscot River with little through traffic which made it pleasant for sitting on the porch, listening to the birds and the sound of the river coming from beyond the surrounding tall trees. At night, I could open the windows and sleep peacefully.

Maine morning glories

I rented a car for my visit; however, a car is not necessary to get around — depending on where you want to go. The Community Connector bus stop was a few steps from the Airbnb house with routes to both the University of Maine in Orono and to downtown Bangor.

I moved to the Ramada Inn for the last three nights of my stay because the Airbnb had been booked for those nights by another guest.  Although I was looking forward to my stay at the Ramada, unfortunately, I was disappointed. I thought the pool would be fun but was turned off by a thick ring of scum on the tile that encircled the entire pool. I tried to ignore it, but it grossed me out, so I went back to my room and took a shower. I was also looking forward to the provided hot breakfast. The scrambled eggs I’m sure were from a powder or box. The sausage patties were fine —but there were no other protein choices. Lots of pancakes, cereal, bread, muffins, and bagels. I choked down the terrible eggs with the sausage and a slice of whole wheat toast for two mornings. The third morning, I went to Nicky ’s Cruisin' Diner. The Ramada could easily improve its breakfast menu if it varied the daily offerings and served real eggs, fresh fruit, and other protein choices such as yogurt, cheese, and more whole grains.

Eating & Drinking in Bangor

Bangor has plenty of options for restaurants. My dining style tends to be casual, local fare where I can get a beer or a glass of wine. I prefer locally owned businesses over chains and franchises — and nothing too fancy. The first night we went downtown to Black Bear Brewing for a beer. We were there on a Tuesday, and the kitchen was closed. It’s too bad we didn’t get there later in the week to try the grilled cheese that they’re known for. We then went around the corner to Paddy Murphy’s for another beer and something to eat. Joe got a Reuben, and I got an order of poutine fries (yum!) and chicken wings. Portion sizes were plenty, and I took half of my order home and ate it for lunch the next day.

Cascade Park is the perfect place for a picnic.

On Wednesday, for dinner, I bought a rotisserie chicken, salad bar, chips, dessert and iced tea from the Hannaford grocery store, and we met at Cascade Park for a picnic. How many times in my life did I drive by here and never stop? Cascade is a pretty little park with a trademark water fountain in a landscaped pond, surrounded by flowers and a cute little bridge. The park has benches, picnic tables, and trails through the woods. It was starting to get dark by the time we ate, so we didn’t walk the trails. Next time.

We had tickets for Kenny Chesney on Thursday night. We got to the Sea Dog at around 2 p.m. where we had a beer and a bite to eat. The Sea Dog has a large riverside deck with plenty of outdoor seating and an outdoor bar overlooking the river. For a downtown restaurant, it’s quite popular and usually has plenty of easy parking. We then worked our way toward Darlings Waterfront Pavilion, stopping at The Main Tavern for another beer or two. The Main Tavern is a local, friendly bar with karaoke almost every night. The owner, Pete, was there, and he said the waterfront concerts have been a big boost to the downtown economy. Joe tried the freshly mixed “bong water.” I wasn’t quite as adventurous as him and stuck to my beer.
On Saturday night, we met a friend for dinner at Blaze. My friend and I each ordered the haddock tacos, mine on corn tortillas; hers were served on flour tortillas. Joe ordered one of the Oak Fired Burgers. Blaze is a popular downtown restaurant known for its food, wine, cocktails, and craft beer. I started eating fish tacos after I moved to the west coast. These haddock tacos were deliciously prepared with just enough toppings to enhance that wonderful light haddock flavor. (Have I mentioned that I love haddock?) After dinner, we ventured up Main Street for a return visit to The Main Tavern for karaoke. It was a small, friendly and diverse crowd. The owner, Pete, said, "Hey, I remember you guys. Welcome back!" 

Haddock fish tacos from Blaze

On Sunday morning, we got breakfast at Judy’s downtown on the corner of State and Essex Streets. Judy’s is a classic local diner with one exception — it has a bar — a drinking bar. Yup. There were people bellied up to the bar at 10 am. I can't say I actually saw anyone drinking alcohol. It was Sunday morning after all. (There was a time in Maine when alcohol couldn't be sold before a certain time on a Sunday, but I'm not sure if that law is still in place.) I ordered the corned beef hash — one of my favorite diner breakfasts when it is homemade — with two eggs over easy. Joe got the breakfast special — two eggs, toast, home fries, bacon. The 41-year-old Judy’s is for sale so it will be interesting to see how it changes with new owners. 

After breakfast, we bought sandwiches, chips, and water at Harvest Moon Deli on Columbia Street. We had to wait a bit for the sandwiches to be made, but, as the sign at the counter says, “the wait is worth it.” Sandwiches are made fresh to order. After we got our sandwiches, we headed east on Main Street/Route 1A, through Hampden and Winterport, and turned right onto Loggin Road at the sharp corner in Frankfort. We followed Google Maps to Swan Lake State Park, a 67-acre park in Waldo County, about 40 miles from Bangor, with a swimming beach, picnic tables, charcoal grills, trails, playground, and changing rooms. (The bathrooms are not flush toilets, so be warned. A little stinky.) I believe kayaks and paddle boats are available to rent, but we didn’t use them. Admission was free to residents on this day, and I paid the $7 non-resident fee, using the honor system by dropping cash into a slot in a metal cylinder at the unmanned entrance gate. The park was an especially nice place to visit with friends and family on a warm summer day. Plenty of shade or sun and not too crowded.

We went to Orono and to the original Pat’s Pizza on Monday night, sitting downstairs to watch the Red Sox. The menu has changed since I went to UMO (as it was known 30 years ago.) Back then, Pat’s only made individual size pizzas. Now it has regulars and smalls. We each got our own small — for old times sake. I worked as a waitress at Pat’s Pizza when I was in college, and I’m pretty sure I saw Pat’s son-in-law Bruce going out the back door as we were going in. I shared a few old stories about Pat’s Pizza with Joe. Bruce and Pat used to make the sauce secretly in the cellar. No one else was allowed in the basement when they were making the sauce. Old Pat used to always have a cigar hanging out of his mouth, and we used to joke that his cigar ashes were the “secret” to the “secret” sauce.

On Tuesday, Joe stayed home and I went to dinner with a friend of mine from Skowhegan. We kept up our tradition and went out for Thai food at Mama D’s on Main Street in downtown Bangor. The food was good. The service was good. No complaints, really. Just not the same as good ol’ M Thai in Skowhegan where we always used to go.

Joe and I went on the Stephen King (SK) Tour (see below) on Wednesday morning. It meets and drops off at the park and ride at Odlin Road. Perfect, because just down the street a short distance is the lobster red food truck called the Lobstah Buoy where, after the tour, we each got 1/4 lb lobster roll basket — served with fresh cut fries and cole slaw. The lobster rolls were prepared perfectly with just enough mayo to hold it together and stuffed into a toasty, grilled split top hot dog roll. I didn’t mind the little bit of lettuce on the bottom of the roll, but I know a few real Mainahs who would frown at anything but lobster and a bit of mayo in a lobster roll. The lobster roll was delicious and satisfied my craving for lobster. The only problem was I could have eaten a second one with no problem.

Later that night, another friend joined us, and we went to Moe’s Original Barbecue. I know I said I don’t usually go to chain restaurants, but I’ve heard so much about Moe’s, I thought we should try it. Besides, living in Juneau, I don’t get many chances to eat at the popular new chains. I love barbecue and gobbled up every lick of my pulled pork, cole slaw, corn bread, and mac and cheese platter. It was all good except for the mac and cheese which was dry and didn’t have much gooey cheesiness. (It was like leftover mac and cheese from home, when it’s heated up in the microwave the next day. It’s never as good as when it’s fresh out of the oven.) The cornbread had a little honey sweetness to it and was grilled, giving it buttery, toasty sides.

On my last night with Joe, I asked him if he would prefer something fancy (Timber Kitchen & Bar) or something more casual (Dysart's). He chose Dysart's — the original Dysart's on Coldbrook Road in Hermon. That’s my boy! On the way, I asked him if he had ever seen the video outtake of the older couple filming a Dysart's commercial. He said he had and we both chuckled. And then — wouldn’t you know it — as we were entering the restaurant, we saw the couple from the commercial through the big picture window, sitting in the booth eating their dinner. I wondered if Dysarts gives them a special deal or discount for making the commercial? Or maybe they’re big fans, and that’s why they were asked to do the commercial? Joe ordered the large shepherd’s pie special, and I ordered a bowl of haddock chowder — so good — just the way it should be — milky creamy with onions, potatoes, and chunks of haddock with a thin layer of melted butter and black pepper flakes floating on the surface. We don’t get haddock in Juneau, and I miss it.

Things To Do in Bangor

A secluded resting place with pine tree sentinel

Mount Hope Cemetery

Walking through Mount Hope Cemetery was one of Tripadvisor's top things to do in Bangor. Some people think it’s weird to go walking in a cemetery, but that was the purpose of this garden cemetery when it was created in the 19th century. The cemetery was within walking distance of my Veazie Airbnb room, so I headed that way one morning after breakfast. The August air was cool on my skin yet the rising sun warmed my face and the back of my neck as I walked east along State Street / Route 2 toward Bangor. I walked through the R.M. Flagg restaurant supply store parking lot and crossed Mount Hope Avenue. The name Flagg sounded familiar, and later in the week while on the SK Tour I would learn why. With no sidewalks on either side of Mount Hope Avenue, I walked down into the ditch and then back up onto the lawn that ran alongside the cemetery gate. The morning grass was still wet with dew and it soaked through my sneakers getting my feet wet. It reminded me of raking blueberries as a kid to earn money for the Blue Hill Fair. Cool air and wet grass in the morning gave way to a baking hot afternoon sun. My wet feet would parboil inside my shoes by lunchtime.

I wandered aimlessly through the many roads and paths of the cemetery with the goal of finding the grave marker of Hannibal Hamlin, a Maine native and 15th Vice President of the United States during Abraham Lincoln’s first term, 1861 to 1865. The older parts of the cemetery were becoming naturalized with trees that were probably just saplings at the time of burial but now towered over graves and their roots sometimes uprooting headstones. Some askew, as if ready to topple over at the slightest tremble, some already completely toppled over, face-down on the ground. 

Little Emma

Grave markers came in all shapes and sizes, and I was drawn to read some of them. “Loving Mother” “Faithful Wife” How can we be sure? Carved into a man’s headstone, “Saved.” Apparently not. “Little Emma” on a stone no bigger than a milk carton. Sure enough. I saw the circular monument dedicated to “A Gentle and Loving Mother” from her sons. Mother’s sole grave in the center of the circular monolith of pillars; the graves of her sons and their wives encircling Mother. 

Sons' memorial to Mother

I found the grave of a boy, Charles Edwin, who was born in June 1848 and died in September 1848. Next to him, his brother, Marcus Nye, born June 1858 and died in September 1858. I thought about their gentle and loving mother. I saw four tiny white graves in a row, each topped with a resting lamb. Two sisters, Blanch and Hazel, and their two younger brothers, Walter and Howard, the oldest, not yet aged two. None had ever known the others. Once again, I thought about their gentle and loving mother.

Four little lambs

I had almost given up looking for Hannibal Hamlin’s grave, which I surmised from an Internet picture was somewhere near the cemetery gate that ran parallel with Route 2 / State Street. I walked the path that ran along the gate and realized I could walk a long time without ever finding what I was looking for. I had been walking through the cemetery for two hours already. I should start back to the Airbnb soon. I hadn’t brought water with me, and the sun was warm. Then it occurred to me that the cemetery probably had a map on its website. I sat on a stone step, took out my phone, and found the website to the cemetery. Yes, indeed there was a map. I found the map with points of interest numbered on it. It took me a few moments to get oriented and see that #5 on the map indicated the location of the Hannibal Hamlin grave — just another 10 yards along the path. I could see it from where I sat. Well then.

Stone mosaic near Hamlin's grave

His grave is a simple rectangular box with no fancy ornaments. Across the way was another box, set on tall legs with lots of ornamental scrolls and fancy embellishments, supposedly containing the remains of Bangor lumber baron Rufus Dwinel. (See his story on the cemetery map key.) If I had to guess, I would have thought a former Vice President of the United States’ headstone would have been more remarkable. Hamlin must have lived during a time when politicians were humble men.

The chimes of 12 noon began playing as I walked back toward the Mount Hope Avenue entrance. I’m sure the songs I heard were hymns, but I didn’t recognize any of them. I stopped at the Korean War Memorial and thought about the people who fought and died in that and in other wars, and I hoped we could stop future wars and needless deaths. I dead-headed the red geraniums planted in the flower beds there then walked back to my Airbnb room in Veazie, admiring the picturesque Maine homes with covered front porches and clumps of blossoming daylilies on the corners of driveways.

A picture of a picture
of Kenny Chesney

The Bangor Waterfront
& Kenny Chesney Concert

When I was a kid, the Bangor waterfront was an industrial area with an idle railroad yard if I’m not mistaken. In 1984, George Stevens Academy seniors boarded a boat — I can’t remember its name — at around 10 or 11 pm for our overnight, chemical free, project graduation cruise to Bar Harbor. Since then the waterfront has been developed into an entertainment venue, drawing big-name artists like Keith Urban — who performed there on August 5th — and Kenny Chesney on August 19th. Zac Brown Band was scheduled for September 28th. The waterfront has been hosting an annual Folk Festival since before I left Maine.

Red hot dog on a grilled
split top bun
-- a Maine delicacy

Joe and I spent most of the afternoon prior to the concert in downtown, stopping at the Sea Dog and then The Main Tavern for a few beers. Around 5 p.m. we headed toward the concert venue, Darlings Waterfront Pavilion. Joe had been to a few concerts there before. It was my first. We had reserved seats in Section 1. I don’t remember exactly how much I paid for the tickets, but the price was reasonable to me, less than $100 apiece. By 5:15 we were in line, and soon after that, I could hardly see the end of the line. Glad we didn’t wait much longer before getting in line. Once inside, we found our seats and got a couple of beers. I found the venue to be super organized and easy to maneuver. Even though our tickets said row 9, We were actually in the third row behind the pit fence. A few times people tried to stand in front of us at the fence, but almost immediately a concert worker would tell them to move along. It was a fantastic show. The weather was perfect. Joe is a big Kenny Chesney fan, and his voice was hoarse from all the yelling and singing along. After the show, we walked back toward downtown and got a nightcap at Happy Endings, a downtown bar specializing in tapas, desserts, and signature cocktails.

Good Bloody Mary at the Sea
Dog Brewing Company.

The following week, I met friends at the waterfront — another beautiful August day — and we ate at the Grillin' Brazilian food truck. I built my bowl with the grilled chicken thighs, rice, greens, and the vinaigrette dressing. Delicious. We carried our bowls closer to the river where we found a picnic table where we ate and caught up with each other.

Stephen King Tour

When I decided to spend a week in Bangor to visit my son, I knew I had to dive into some Stephen King. I’m from Maine, but I’ve never been a regular reader of Stephen King. I read Pet Sematary when I was in high school, and I think a scene from it may have been shot on a blueberry barren out on the Mines Road in Sedgwick. I saw the movie Salem’s Lot a long time ago, and I watched the mini-series Storm of the Century on tv. To be honest, King’s stuff scares the hell out of me.

SK Tours is a well-organized, entertaining and
educational tour about Stephen King and Bangor.

The neurotic, overprotective mother in me is still haunted by Storm of the Century. It’s right up there with Sophie’s Choice. I wish I hadn’t seen that one either. The terrible endings of both those movies snuck right up on me, and before I realized what Sophie’s choice was — and the choice of the father in Storm of the Century (which, actually, wasn’t a choice for him at all) it was too late. That gut-wrenching scene is embedded in my memory forever. Hug your child and hold him tight, even if he is 24 years old.
I saw a memorable play production of Misery quite a while ago when I was in Maine -- Gaslight Theater in Augusta if I remember correctly. I've seen some of The Shining and some of Carrie, but have never been able to finish watching either of them. Too scary for me.
Of course, King also wrote The Shawshank Redemption, The Green Mile, and many other novels outside the horror genre. I'm rather ashamed to admit that I've seen the movies, but haven't read the books.

But since I am trying to be a writer and trying to read more works by good writers, I’m more and more drawn to Stephen King. I’m learning more about his wide range of works, and — what the heck — I’m going to be in Bangor, home of Stephen King! I decided to turn my focus on to learning more about him and reading his books. I checked out the complete and uncut, paperback edition of The Stand and his book On Writing from the Juneau Public Library. I also bought a hardcover copy of 11/23/63 and paperback copies of Cell and Salem's Lot. I brought The Stand and On Writing with me to read on my trip. I also brought Cell to give to Joe. The Stand is about two inches thick. You could jack up a car on it to change a flat tire. The book was suspicious enough that TSA searched my tote bag and flipped through its pages to make sure it was just a book, and I wasn’t trying to hide something inside it as Andy did with his Bible in Shawshank Redemption.

Gerry at Gerald Winters & Son has
fun with the sandwich board
outside his shop on Main Street.

I haven’t cracked On Writing yet because I’m working my way through the 1,439 pages of The Stand with every moment of available reading time. Gerry at Gerald Winters & Son bookstore on Main Street in downtown Bangor told me that On Writing will be a quick read when I get to it. His store is full of Stephen King first editions, limited editions, and other collector items and memorabilia. I bought a set of horror movie keychains depicting places like The Bates Motel and Elm Street. Gerry also gave me a wooden Derry, Maine keychain. Thank you, Gerry! His bookstore on Main Street is currently participating in the Stephen King auction to benefit pediatric cancer research.

The SK Tour picks up at the Park & Ride on Odlin Road across from the Ramada. Stu Tinker, the tour guide, and his wife Penney, once owned and operated Betts Bookstore downtown, specializing in Stephen King and located where Paddy Murphy’s is now. Stu credits King for helping him out. I won’t give away all of Stu’s stories because, quite frankly, they are not my stories to tell, and you should take the tour yourself, but I’ll give you a few highlights. The three-hour tour cost $45 and taught me what a great writer Stephen King is and, better yet, what great people he and his wife Tabitha are.

The tour van had large picture windows, air conditioning, and comfortable seats. Stu’s personality was relaxed and friendly, and he encouraged us to ask questions and let him know if we needed to use the bathroom or get water or wanted to get out of the van to take pictures. I especially enjoyed Stu’s Maine accent. “Alaska!” He exclaimed when he heard where I live. “I know a bunch-a Maine hippies moved up they-ah to Hoe-mah!” Before the tour started, one of the tour guests texted Stu to say she was running a few minutes late, so Stu took us on a quick ride to the original Dysart's in Hermon which inspired King to write a short story called “Trucks” originally published in 1973 and later appeared in the collection of short stories, Nightshift. I added “Trucks” and Nightshift to my reading list if I can find them. About halfway through the tour, Stu pulled the van into a convenience store and everyone got a bathroom or smoke break if they wanted one. One couple bought a homemade whoopie pie for each of them. I was tempted. Several other times during the tour we got out of the van and walked around to take pictures.  Eleven people were in our group, most of them fans -- or Constant Readers -- who had read more Stephen King than I had, but believe me, my reading and movie list has gotten longer since taking the tour.

Mount Hope Cemetery inspired Stephen King
with ideas for some of his stories.

The SK Tour brought me back to Mount Hope Cemetery where Stu filled us in on the history of this “garden cemetery.” It opened in 1834 and was designed as a park with raised graves which was customary at that time. Scenes from Pet Sematary were filmed at Mt. Hope, and according to Stu, King would get ideas for character names from reading headstones in the cemetery. He collected ideas for names from other places too. Randall Flagg came from the R.M. Flagg kitchen store. Deep into The Stand by now, I thought, that’s why the name Flagg sounded so familiar to me the other day! Randall Flagg. With two Gs.

Stephen King wrote some of It on this bench.

Stu drove us all throughout Bangor pointing out places that I’ve driven by my whole life, but now have new meaning to me — places inspired by King and represented in his stories. As I said, I don’t want to ruin the tour for you so I won’t go into much detail here, but I will say The Long Walk was another title I added to my reading list. Stu told us that The Long Walk took place along Route 2/State Street (apparently being made into a movie next year, so need to read that one soon.) Stu said The Long Walk is similar to The Hunger Games, only scarier. Oh, great.

One of the most enlightening parts of the tour was learning about the generosity of Stephen and Tabitha King. Through their personal giving and through the Stephen and Tabitha King Foundation, they have helped Bangor and many other communities across Maine. The Kings were behind the building of the pediatric wing at Eastern Maine Medical Center, major repairs to the Bangor Public Library, the Shawn T. Mansfield Stadium, and the Beth Pancoe Pool. Before Stephen King became the famous writer he is today, he was a poor, struggling college graduate / English teacher/writer wannabe/husband/father of two kids. Tabitha and others stood by his side during those tough early years before he gained notoriety with Carrie. He would never forget his friends and the people who helped him and Tabitha when they were a struggling young family. Today, he and Tabitha (Tabby to her friends) humbly share their good fortune with others — declining offers to plaster their names all over the buildings or facilities they helped build. The more I learn about Stephen King, the more resolved I am that he should be declared a national treasure.

Hollywood Casino Bangor

It started to rain after the tour and after our lobster rolls, so Joe and I decided to check out the Hollywood Casino in downtown Bangor. I had never been to a casino before -- other than to walk through one to get to Denny's while in Nevada last March. Joe hadn't been here before either. So, we were both a little lost about how the slot machines work. We walked around the floor to scope things out then chose a couple of slot machines to sit at. After a few minutes of staring at the screen, a friendly staffer came over and explained how it worked. Joe got it, but I was still confused. We both received 10 free spins at that time, and Joe predicted that we'd be just enough ahead after that to bait us into playing more. Sure enough, at the end of our play -- about five minutes later -- we were both about $2 ahead and with a laugh, agreed it was a good time to quit. We printed out the ticket and brought it to a different machine and got our money back -- and then some. Then we spent it at the bar. I can see how people who like to play would enjoy going to the casino. Looking around the floor, most of the players I saw looked like older, retired people -- both men and women. We were there on a Wednesday afternoon. I imagine many of the casino guests travel a long distance to come here on their vacations.

In 2013, the Stephen and Tabitha King Foundation
gave $3 million toward a $9 million renovation of
Bangor Public Library.

Bangor Public Library

The Bangor Public Library is a beautiful building worth visiting for its architecture and art alone. We went there after our stop at the casino. Visiting the library was even more meaningful after hearing Stu tell us some of the stories of Tabitha King's work to improve the library. I especially liked the Lecture Hall Penobscot Marine Museum exhibit on the third floor, "Through Her Lens--Women Photographers of Midcoast Maine, 1885-1925." Although you should visit the Bangor Public Library when you are in Bangor, you can also enjoy a virtual exhibit at the Penobscot Marine Museum website before your next trip to Bangor.

Farewell Thoughts

This brief glimpse into the visitor's side of Bangor has left me wanting more. More Stephen King books to read. More history of Bangor to learn. More good food and music. More time to visit with my Maine friends and family -- especially my boy Joe. Now I feel like I don't need an excuse to visit Bangor. I'd happily go again.

Boat ride to Taku Harbor

Taku Harbor Float with shore access. (Patricia E. Harding)

"So beautiful ... that by one sympathetic impulse we named it Eden.”

      During Memorial Day Weekend 2017, Roger and I boarded the Dawntreader at Aurora Harbor in Juneau for an overnight cruise to Taku Harbor, located on the eastern shore of Stephens Passage, 22 miles southeast of Juneau. Taku Harbor is a popular place for recreational boaters and fishermen. Southeast Alaska Sailing has annual Memorial Day and Labor Day races to Taku Harbor. After a long day of sailing, the group gathers on the dock for a potluck meal and socializing.

Southeast Alaska Sailing teams prepare
to leave the harbor and race to Juneau.
(Patricia E. Harding)

     The State of Alaska Division of Parks and Natural Resources operates the Taku Harbor State Marine Park. The Tiger Olson public use cabin sleeps six for $45 per night and is located 100 feet from the public dock. The City and Borough of Juneau Docks and Harbors Department operates the Taku Harbor Moorings / Public Transient Moorage which consists of overnight mooring on two public floats: Taku Harbor Float with 890 linear feet of side moorage with shore access and Stockade Point Float with 300 linear feet of side moorage with no shore access.

The 25-foot Dawntreader

on the left is dwarfed by

the 65-foot Alaska Quest.
(Patricia E. Harding)

     Some boaters sail to Taku Harbor every year for Memorial Day weekend. They relax on the dock, set crab pots, or fish in the harbor from their dingies or paddle around in kayaks and canoes. We were on a 25-foot Albin cruiser, perfect for two people on a short trip to Taku Harbor. Most of the other boats tied up were bigger than ours, including the Alaska Quest, a 65-foot, custom made steel expedition trawler used for a family-owned, southeast cruising business in the vicinity of Admiralty Island. This weekend was the family’s first get-together of the summer before their cruising season began.

     The best part about exploring little known places like Taku Harbor is discovering its history in things left behind. Old pilings, a rusted boiler in the woods, and a neglected shack are artifacts of the past. They make me wonder, who lived here? What did they do? Why did they leave? In the mountains, water, wind, and trees I sense the spirit of past souls, and it makes me want to learn more about the people who were here before me.

Boiler lost in time and in the weeds. (Patricia E. Harding)

The Taku Tlingit

     The Tlingit who lived in this area were called Taku, or Taku-kon, or “people of the Taku.” Between 1840 and 1880, explorers referred to the Taku as Taku-kon, Taku-kuan, Thakhu-khoan, Taku, Taco, Taco/Samdan, Tacos/Sundowns, and Tacoo. (Krause, p. 78) The land and seas around the Taku River and Taku Bay “at the foot of the mighty glaciers” (Krause, p. 6) were theirs to hunt and fish. They also had trading routes to the interior through tributaries of the Yukon. In 1880, the Taku had four villages, each named after the chief of the village: Tokeatl’s Village with 26 people, Chitklin’s Village with 113, Katlany’s Village with 106, and Fotshou’s Village with 24 inhabitants.

The Taku Tlingit were the original people of
the Taku region. (Ano-Thlosh, Chief of the Taku
Tribe of Thlinght [Tlingit] natives. Copyright 1906.
Alaska State Library, Lantern Slides of Alaska
Photo Collection)

(Krause, p. 69) Like their neighbors, the Auk, many Taku later settled in Juneau near the swift river now known as Gold Creek. They named their village Tsenta-ka-hini, the name given to one of the middle schools in Juneau now spelled, Dzantik’i Heeni.

Hudson's Bay Company

     The Hudson's Bay Company established a trading post in Taku Harbor in 1840. Often referred to as Fort Taku, Fort Durham was named after the Earl of Durham who at the time was the Governor General of Canada. The fort had a total of 35 people on its roster over its three years of existence with about 26 men at any one time. That number may have been larger during the summer of 1840 while the fort was being built. Fifteen of the men were from Oahu, Hawaii, then known as the Sandwich Islands. One native, James Tod, is listed on the roster as are 19 French Canadians, called Metis. Five of the men were English or Scottish. (Olson, p. 11-12)

Historical ariel view of Taku Harbor
(Taku Harbor 8-4-29. Alaska State Library Photo Collection.)

     Taku Harbor was not the intended location of the fort. Commanding Officer and Chief Factor James Douglas aboard the sailing ship Vancouver and accompanied by the steamer Beaver first explored the Taku River in search of a suitable site to build a trading fort where they could trade with the Chilcat and other natives of Cross Sound. The majestic beauty of the area awed Douglas: “...many portions of good clear land profusely covered with grasses and flowering plants, in full bloom, which made it look so beautiful, in contrast with the desolate regions around, that by one sympathetic impulse we named it Eden.” (Olson, p. 13) However, the company did not find a suitable site on the river. The waters were too shallow at low tide (in some places just half a foot.) Strong currents, icebergs, and winter ice made the river difficult to navigate. Finally, the lack of flat land on which to build and lack of logging trees left the company empty handed. When they were about to give up, a friendly Taku they called “Locality” told Douglas about a small harbor just 20 miles south of Point Salisbury. “It possesses a safe harbour of easy access, abundance of good timber, together with the most important advantage of being directly in the high way of trade and at a convenient distance for the Natives of Chilcat and Cross Sound.” (Olson, p. 36)

     

Shore access from Taku Harbor
Float. (Patricia E. Harding)

The English Hudson’s Bay Company operated the post through a lease from the Russian America Company that gave the English rights to trading with the natives on the mainland coast (Auk, Taku, Chilcat) between 54 degrees 40’ north latitude to Cape Spencer in exchange for 2,000 Columbian sea otters per year. The Russians retained trading rights with natives of the islands (Klawock, Kake, Sitka.) Each company would keep a record of furs acquired from each other's territory. At the end of the year, they would reconcile accounts and transfer the balances. Douglas clearly and courteously, yet firmly, reminded the Russian American Fur Company of their agreement in a letter he wrote after receiving reports that the Chilcat sold all their furs to the Russian steam vessel Nicolai I. (Olson, p. 40)

The Hudson's Bay Blanket

     The Hudson's Bay Company’s prized woolen blankets were highly valued and used as currency. (Krause, p. 212) The company wove “points” into the borders of the blankets in an attempt to set the blankets' prices. According to the Oregon Historical Society (Binus, 2004), the natives did not go along with set prices for blankets. They believed in negotiation. The point system was later used by weavers to indicate the blanket’s size, since the points could easily be seen while the blanket was still folded. (Wikipedia.) A four-point blanket was most valuable while a one-point blanket was least valuable because it was the smallest, not because of inferior quality. A rich person owned hundreds of blankets folded and stored in large boxes. (Krause, p. 212) The Hudson's Bay Company once operated 36 hunting stations along the mainland coastline until its lease with the Russians ended in 1865.

Obstacles to Trade

     No Tlingits were known to have lived in Taku Harbor until after Fort Durham was built. The Taku Tlingits were not happy with the fort and tried to sabotage its efforts by kidnapping men and trying to set fire to the fort. One explanation for the animosity is the Hudson's Bay Company displaced the Taku Tlingit's role as intermediary trader between the natives on the coast and natives in the interior. The liquor trade proved to be another obstacle to trade. So bad in fact, that the British and Russians agreed to forbid trading alcohol with the Tlingit -- a successful move until "the country was overrun with gold miners and trading from California, who made a lucrative business of buying furs in exchange for liquor and from that time to this, this crying evil could not be stopped." (Olson, p. 46) Finally, poor weather conditions -- Finlayson reported rain nine out of 12 months -- and the unprofitability of the fort factored in the decision to close it in 1843. 

The Cannery

       I found little published about Taku Harbor from the time the fort closed until the time the cannery opened; however, it is believed that some Tlingits and whites settled there as residents after the fort closed. In 1898 there was a saltery.

Historic photo of the Pacific Cold Storage Plant and Cannery,
(Alaska State Library, Case & Draper Photo Collection)

Canning and cold storage for the fishing industry came to Taku Harbor in 1903 with the establishment of Taku Harbor Cannery by the San Juan Fish Company. In 1906-1908 John L. Carlson leased and then bought the cannery and developed it until 1918 when he sold the cannery to Libby, McNeil and Libby. The cannery burned and was rebuilt twice -- shortly after Carlson left and again in 1931 -- during Libby ownership. Historical photographs from the collection of John L. 

Current site of the old cannery. Fort Durham was likely
located in the forested area in the upper left
corner of this photo. (Patricia E. Harding)

Johnson who worked at the cannery from 1932 to 1934 show a robust cannery community and destination for fishermen selling their catch. The F.V. Neptune, F.V. President, F.V. Excursion, and F.V. Willard B. are some of the boats offloading fish to the Libby Company featured in historic photographs. Other photos depict a pile driver working in the harbor and the devastating fire of May 9-10, 1932. The cannery operated in Taku Harbor until 1951 when a man named Westly Walker was sent from the company to dismantle it. (Olson, p. 65)

     Some time after Fort Durham closed, a few people settled in Taku Harbor and then applied to the U.S. Forest Service for land claims in Taku Harbor. Some of the names include Paul G. Riffle, Dick Kanach, Tom Jackson, and Sandstron. (Olson, p. 65) In 1926, while the cannery was still in operation, G. Edward Bach received a piece of land from the U.S. Forest Service that included the land on which Fort Durham was situated. Edward Bach's father, L. George Bach, lived at the site, and Edward's son, Curtis, later recalled that his grandfather used the cleared site of the old fort for his garden. George's brother, Frank, filed a mining claim in the area. Curtis inherited the land after his father died.

The Tiger of Taku

     The most celebrated resident of Taku Harbor was a man known as Tiger of Taku. Henry "Tiger" Olson lived at Taku Harbor for 56+ years. Originally from northern Minnesota, he arrived in Alaska on the Victoria and went to work for John L. Carlson and later as a maintenance worker for the Libby Company in 1918. One story about how he got the name Tiger is people said his eyes glowed like a cat when he passed them on the boardwalk at night.

     Tiger lived in Taku Harbor long after the cannery shut down. "I've seen the population grow to 500 and fall to two people," he said. (Davis, p. 9) In 1951, when the cannery closed, he was the only permanent resident left in the harbor.

     Although Tiger never went to school and called himself "a kindergarten drop-out," he loved reading and taught himself chemistry, physics, astronomy, and geology. He grew his own garden of potatoes, carrots, and radishes. He also enjoyed growing flowers: narcissus, daffodils, and foxglove. He hunted, fished, and canned food. He cut the wood needed to cook and heat his Taku Harbor cabin.

Henry Olson, known as the "Tiger of Taku,"
lived in Taku Harbor for more than 50 years.

     Over the years, Tiger developed a reputation as a character and visitors looked forward to his friendly greetings at the docks -- even celebrity American actor John Barrymore paid a visit. The popular CBS Sunday morning news magazine On the Road with Charles Kuralt featured a story about Tiger. One year, a young Paul Anderson showed up in Taku Harbor after reading an article about Tiger in Field & Stream magazine. Tiger tried to send the young college student home, but Anderson spent the next two years with Tiger, learning about outdoor life and survival, and also about philosophy and the kind of wisdom gained only by living such a lifestyle.

     "Life is superstition, illusion, and idle dreams." Tiger once said. "It is when you climb high to 5,000 feet and sit alone that you can really think." (Davis, p. 39)

     On June 30th, about 1969, 200 guests and 34 boats traveled to Taku Harbor to surprise Tiger on his 90th birthday. 

The cabin where Tiger
Olson lived in Taku Harbor
still stands. (Patricia E. Harding)

Taku Harbor Today

     Today, Taku Harbor holds the artifacts of a time and a people gone by. It has been part of the Taku Tlingit territory for thousands of years; some say 11,000 years. The 1800s brought great changes with explorers and a trading post and then a cannery and a few residents at the turn of the century, only to come almost full circle with no current settlements, villages, or year round residents. Today, Taku Harbor is a peaceful retreat for rest, recreation and reflection.

Writer's Note: Taku Harbor inspired me to learn as much as I could about its people and history. Although I read several books and articles about the history of Taku Harbor, there is much more to learn. I encourage readers to comment and add their own remembrances, knowledge, and reflections.

Thank you to the Alaska State Library for permission to publish the historical photos.

References

• Binus, Joshus. "Hudson's Bay Company Blanket." The Oregon History Project, A project of the Oregon Historical Society, https://oregonhistoryproject.org/articles/historical-records/hudson39s-bay-company-blanket/#.WXewOdPyuRs
• Davis, Carol Beery. Tiger of Taku. Miner Publishing Company: Juneau, Alaska (1977)
• Krause, Aurel. The Tlingit Indians Results of a Trip to the Northwest Coast of America and the Bering Straits. Translated by Erna Gunther, University of Washington Press, 1956.
• Mitcham, Allison. Taku The Heart of North America's Last Great Wilderness. Illustrated by Naomi and Peter Mitcham, Lancelot Press, Hantsport, Nova Scotia, 1993.
• Olson, Wallace M. A History of Fort Durham Hudson's Bay Company Trading Post Located in Taku Harbor 1840-1843 Within the boundaries of present day Juneau, Alaska. Heritage Research, Juneau, Alaska, 1994.
• Richardson, Genevieve, The Tlingit People, http://thetlingitpeople.weebly.com/index.html
• " Hudson's Bay Point Blanket" Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_point_blanket

© 2017 Patricia E. Harding